Latimer Road was once known for its brickmakers. At another point, for its laundries. Later, for its schools. For the Victorians, it was known as a temperance area; "so there weren't that many pubs around, which is quite interesting." At some point, 274 Latimer Road became a pub, "the Greedy… Something?" and later, another pub "called the Latimer Road—" "—no, it was called the British Volunteer—" "—and then, it was a Greek restaurant." "I thought it was a wine bar!"  At some point, "The Clash drank here—"  "—and so did our friend Max!" Today, number 274 is The Latimer, newly run by the Spiteri family: Jon, Melanie, and their children, Lorcan, Fin and Molly. 

There's a century of stories to be told by the Spiteris, who hold over a hundred years of culinary history between them. On Latimer Road, they anticipate even more. "We want everyone to feel part of it, and enjoy it—" "—that's right, enjoy it in different ways." As they welcome everyone, "we want to be a place where people feel comfortable" they also "want to set out the story of what we want to do here." 

That story was simple: "we always wanted a pub, and we're all restaurant people." The trick, perhaps, was housing their hospitality history under a single ceiling — one that needed a fresh coat of paint at that. So, the family dived right in, equipped with experience and ideas, friends and favours from previous ventures, the well wishes of locals, and approximately forty family group chats. 

Lorcan, the family chef, introduced his tattooist, who designed the Latimer logo (a greyhound, and an additional nod to local history) while Fin, leading on drinks, commissioned the bespoke recycled tap handles from their friends at All Day Goods. As Lorcan's girlfriend, Nicole, sewed curtains with fabric sourced from the Designers Guild a road along, Molly (in charge of operations) helped her, while also picking the deep cream and light sage paintwork. Molly is "glad I dug my heels in on the colours!" she tells us, laughing, because they complement the mural commissioned by Melanie's good friend who lives just around the corner, and the accompanying plants: "dogwood", a nice touch for the keen eyed, "or the keen gardener." 

Sat under signage created by a friend of Jon's are other nods to the family history: coat pegs inspired by those at Rochelle Canteen (which Melanie co-founded), shakers like the ones at St John (which Jon, in turn, co-founded). Practical touches remind them of their time working around the city: for Jon, The Cow; for the brothers, Caravel; for Molly, Koya; and for Melanie, The French House. But, Melanie gently adds, much of this history is invisible: smooth practicalities that come with experience. "And that style," she gestures around, "it just comes from what we like as a family."